April on the lake
As April settles on Lake Como, the air carries a new, restless energy. The morning light glints off a still, turquoise water, but high above the shoreline, the mountains are calling. This is the month when the lake truly opens its arms to the adventurers, as the high passes shed their winter coats and the roads become a theater for one of Italy's greatest passions: cycling. There is a specific clarity to the April sky, a sharp, brilliant blue that makes the limestone peaks seem close enough to touch.
This month, we lean into the spirit of the ascent as we explore the legendary cycling culture of the "Larian Triangle," pay homage to the patroness of riders at Madonna del Ghisallo, and celebrate the arrival of Piselli, those tiny, sweet emeralds peas that signal a Mediterranean spring. Our journey through the season culminates in a bowl of the historic Risi e Bisi, a dish that is as much a celebration of the spring harvest as it is a nod to Venetian tradition.
CYCLING CULTURE & HIGH PASSES
For the people of the Lario, cycling is not merely a sport; it is a pilgrimage woven into the landscape. April is the ideal window to ride the historic routes of the Giro di Lombardia, before the summer crowds and heat settle in. The roads that wind between the lake's two southern branches offer some of the most storied climbs in the world, where the ghosts of Coppi and Bartali still seem to linger on every hairpin turn.
Madonna del Ghisallo Cycling Shrine: A visit to this centuries-old sanctuary in Magreglio is essential for anyone seeking the soul of the lake. Declared the patroness of cyclists by Pope Pius XII, the Santuario della Madonna del Ghisallo is a moving tribute to the sport, its walls lined with the jerseys and bicycles of legendary champions.
The Ghisallo Museum: Adjacent to the chapel, the Museo del Ciclismo offers an intimate look at the evolution of the bicycle. In April, the museum is typically open daily (9:30 AM – 5:30 PM), though we recommend checking the museum's website for current hours before your visit.
Riding the Larian Triangle: For those ready to test their legs, the climb from Bellagio to the Ghisallo pass is a 10.6km rite of passage with gradients reaching 14%. The reward is the "Larian Triangle" ridge, offering panoramic views that stretch from the peaks of Switzerland to the plains of Milan.
The Muro di Sormano: Only for the truly brave, the "Wall of Sormano" is a legendary detour near the Ghisallo. This narrow, paved path features gradients up to 27%, with the altitude gain famously painted onto the asphalt for every meter of the ascent.
The Giro di Lombardia Routes: Trace the classic race route along the lakefront toward Lecco. April offers the perfect temperature to ride these legendary stretches before the heat of summer settles in, allowing you to experience the roads of "La Classica delle Foglie Morte" in the vibrant bloom of spring.
Ingredient of the Month: Piselli (Spring Peas)
A staple of Northern Italian kitchens, Piselli are the tiny, sweet emeralds that signal the definitive arrival of spring. While dried legumes sustain us through the winter, the first fresh peas of April are a luxury of the moment, prized for their tender skins and honey-like sweetness. In Lombardy and the Veneto, the shelling of the first peas is a rhythmic kitchen ritual—a slow, tactile transition into the new season.
These peas are a canvas for refinement, requiring very little to reach perfection. Whether paired with the saltiness of pancetta or the creaminess of fresh ricotta, they bring a burst of iron-rich vitality to the table. In the traditional "cucina povera" of the north, even the pods are often simmered into stocks, ensuring that not a single drop of that fleeting spring flavor is lost.
Here are four ways to enjoy peas:
Vignarola: A beloved Roman spring stew that has earned a place on tables across Italy, marrying peas with fava beans and artichokes, simmered until tender in a bath of white wine and olive oil. Its celebration of the season's first vegetables makes it a natural fit for our April kitchen.
Pea & Ricotta Crostini: Smashed blanched peas mixed with lemon zest and mint, spread over garlic-rubbed sourdough for a light April aperitivo.
Spezzatino con Piselli: A comforting veal or beef stew where the peas are added at the very end to maintain their bright color and pop of sweetness.
Spring Pea Frittata: A simple, elegant lunch featuring peas, fresh chives, and crumbled goat cheese, served with a crisp green salad.
RECIPE OF THE MONTH: RISI E BISI
There is no dish that captures the transition of the season quite like Risi e Bisi. Historically, this was the dish served to the Doge of Venice on St. Mark's Day (April 25th) to celebrate the feast of the city's patron saint and the bounty of the spring harvest. Neither a soup nor a true risotto, its consistency should be all'onda (wavy) meaning it should flow slightly when the plate is tilted. Where a risotto is stirred to a creamy, firm finish that holds its shape on the plate, Risi e Bisi is meant to be looser and more spoonable, closer to a brothy embrace than a structured mound.
At the Lake Como Kitchen, we respect the Venetian tradition by using every part of the pea. We simmer the empty pods to create a vibrant, jade-green broth that infuses the rice with a depth of flavor you simply cannot get from a standard vegetable stock. It is a dish of incredible elegance born from humble ingredients, requiring patience and a watchful eye as the rice slowly absorbs the essence of the spring garden.
Ingredients (serves 4-6):
1 kg (2.2 lbs) fresh peas in their pods (to yield approx. 300g shelled peas)
350g (1.75 cups) Orzo or Carnaroli rice
1.5 liters (6 cups) water (for the pod broth)
50g (3.5 tbsp) unsalted mountain butter
2 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
1 small yellow onion, very finely minced
50g (2 oz) pancetta or guanciale, finely diced (optional)
60g (1/2 cup) Parmigiano Reggiano, freshly grated
A small handful of fresh flat-leaf parsley, finely chopped
Sea salt and freshly cracked black pepper
Instructions:
Prepare the pod broth: Shell the peas and set the peas aside. Wash the empty pods thoroughly. Place the pods in a large pot with 1.5 liters of water and a pinch of salt. Bring to a boil, then simmer for 40–60 minutes.
Blend and strain: Use an immersion blender to partially break down the soft pods in the water, then strain the liquid through a fine-mesh sieve, pressing hard on the solids to extract all the green "nectar." Keep this broth at a low simmer.
Sauté the base: In a heavy-bottomed pot, melt half the butter with the olive oil. Add the onion and pancetta (if using) and sauté over low heat until the onion is translucent and the fat has rendered.
Toast the rice: Add the rice to the pot and toast for 2 minutes, stirring constantly, until the edges of the grains are translucent.
Simmer with peas: Add the shelled peas to the rice, followed by two ladles of the hot pod broth. Unlike a traditional risotto, you can add more liquid at once here. Aim for a consistency that is halfway between a thick soup and a creamy risotto.
Continue cooking: Add broth ladle by ladle as it is absorbed, stirring frequently but not constantly. The rice should be al dente in about 16–18 minutes.
The Mantecatura: Remove from the heat. Stir in the remaining butter, the Parmigiano Reggiano, and the parsley. Cover and let rest for 2 minutes, this is essential for the flavors to meld.
The Finish: Season with salt and a generous grind of black pepper. The final result should be creamy and spoonable.
Why We Love It: Risi e Bisi is the definition of "spring in a bowl." We love the cleverness of using the pods to create a broth that tastes more like a pea than the pea itself. The sweetness of the fresh legumes against the salty pancetta and the sharp Parmigiano creates a perfect balance. It is a dish that feels celebratory and royal, yet it is fundamentally about the honest, quiet work of the garden.
Wine Pairing: To match the sweetness of the peas and the creamy texture of the rice, we recommend a Soave Classico. This Garganega-based white from the nearby Veneto region offers a lovely floral bouquet and a distinct almond finish that complements the earthy sweetness of the peas. Its bright acidity and medium body provide a refreshing lift to the richness of the butter and cheese.
As the April sun sets behind the silhouette of the Ghisallo, we hope you find a moment to lean into the steady rhythm of the season. Whether you are chasing the spring light on two wheels or shelling peas by an open window, may this month bring you the vibrant energy of the lake reborn.
See you on the lake,
The Lake Como Kitchen Experience Team